Jakarta (ANTARA) –
Warteg, a word that comes from the abbreviation of warung tegal, has long been an important part of culinary delights in Indonesia, especially in big cities like Jakarta.
By serving simple dishes that are full of nutrition and fill the stomach, warteg has become a popular culinary icon because of its affordable prices.
It is known that the initial owner of the warteg was a native of Tegal. So, from Tegal to big cities like Jakarta, what is the actual history of the emergence of this warteg?
Also read: History of soto and its various types in Indonesia
Also read: Typical food souvenirs from various cities in Indonesia
The origin of warteg
The history of warteg cannot be separated from the Tegal community in Central Java. In the 1950s to 1960s, many Tegal people began to migrate to Jakarta to earn a living.
This migration was due to economic developments in Jakarta, which at that time was carrying out a lighthouse project, so it needed a large workforce and opened up many job opportunities.
These migrants from Tegal initially came to work as coolies, but amidst the needs of other workers in Jakarta who wanted to buy fast and cheap food, many Tegal people finally brought their wives and chose to open food stall businesses.
The food sold at that time was nasi ponggol, white rice containing a side dish of tempeh, tofu, chili sauce and wrapped in banana leaves. Looks very simple and cheap, right?
This food stall, called warteg, is starting to attract a lot of attention from workers in Jakarta. The idea of opening a warteg turns out to be a new way for Tegal people to earn enough income to meet their living needs in a big city.
So, this typical Tegal food stall began to spread and branch out in Jakarta, providing cheap and filling food for city residents as workers with lower incomes.
In general, there are many historical versions about the origins of this warteg.
Also read: Eating food often at home reduces the risk of type two diabetes
Also read: Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy promotes Indonesian culinary delights in China
Another version of the history of the origin of warteg is because of Sultan Agung’s war against Batavia with his soldiers.
Before the attack, Sultan Agung instructed the people of Tegal to prepare cheap food supplies for the soldiers.
Then, hearing this command, the Regent of Tegal, Kyai Rangga, suggested that the people of Tegal prepare provisions in the form of salted eggs and scrambled tempeh. Apart from the cheap price, this food can last a long time during travel.
All Jayakarta war preparations were ready and stored at Tegal port as a logistics depot for Mataram soldiers.
However, Sultan Agung was betrayed by leaking all his plans to the VOC, so that all the Mataram soldiers’ logistics were burned to the ground by the VOC.
This caused the soldiers to withdraw from the war because there were no remaining logistical needs, although there were still some soldiers who remained loyal to attack Batavia.
With the remaining soldiers surviving, in the end Sultan Agung and his soldiers still lost. The defeated soldiers chose to remain in Jakarta and decided to sell food, namely salted eggs and fried tempe, food that had been used as logistics for their war.
The place where they sell food is called warteg or warung tegal with its characteristic two doors which mean leadership and discipline, and the color green which symbolizes a soldier.
Apart from that, ordering food at the warteg is the same as at the barracks, namely by taking the food you want yourself.
Also read: Tasting the healthy warteg menu at Fedwell
Also read: These are the foods that will be trending in Indonesia in the next year
Folk food menu
Warteg has a simple menu, such as rice with home-style side dishes, such as lodeh vegetables, orek tempe, balado eggs, fried chicken, and various other side dishes that can be chosen according to taste.
This variety of food is arranged in a glass display case, allowing customers to see directly and choose food quickly and even pick it up themselves.
The pocket-friendly prices make warteg a dining solution for those who want to eat their fill without having to spend a lot of money.
Until now, warteg is often the choice of workers, students and the general public who are looking for fast, cheap and practical food.
As time went by, warteg began to spread to various other big cities in Indonesia. Even though it looks simple, warteg has become a popular culinary symbol.
Also read: Tasting the latest warteg, Warteg Hipster Bandung
Also read: Wowteg brings forward the concept of a modern and hygienic warteg
Reporter: Putri Atika Chairulia
Editor: Maria Rosari Dwi Putri
Copyright © ANTARA 2024
